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Doug Pardee

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Posts posted by Doug Pardee


  1. To my knowledge, there's no upgrade offer from CameraBag 2 to CameraBag Photo.

    When CameraBag Photo was first announced, there was a $29 upgrade offer. But that's the full price nowadays, so you're not missing anything. There have been occasional sales, so if you can't bring yourself to part with $29, maybe just waiting will help a bit.

    • Like 1

  2. You can re-download the presets from the Download page. Look for the line "CameraBag Photo v3.0 Default Presets" down toward the bottom.

    That's a ZIP file that contains all of the presets from 3.0 (but not from 3.0.1, at least not yet). B&W Essentials 08 is in there.

    Here's what's in it:

    <filter version="4">
      <mod name="Tone Curve" version="1" enabled="1">
        <var name="Amount" type="float">1.000000</var>
        <var name="Curve" type="curve">0.000000 0.000000 0.321739 0.065217 0.580435 0.600000 1.000000 1.000000 </var>
        <var name="Method" type="choice">Luminance</var>
      </mod>
      <mod name="Saturation" version="2" enabled="1">
        <var name="Amount" type="float">0.000000</var>
      </mod>
    </filter>

    • Like 1

  3. Happy New Year, friends.

    Here's an old CameraBag Desktop tool that can be used for -- among other things -- selective saturation. You know, those mostly-B&W pictures with only one color still showing. The Hue Saturation tool, or an HSV Mask applied to a Saturation tool, can also get you there, but I find that controlling the curves on those can be a bit challenging. In particular, adjusting how picky the color selection is requires (for me, at least) moving four separate control points on the curve. Also, adjusting the selected color can be a difficult when CameraBag insists on selecting a control point instead of the triangle for the hue control when I click.

    Not that everything's rainbows with this old Selective Saturation tool, at least when you want most of the picture to be B&W. You have to think backwards in that case, because what you're doing is desaturating the other colors. You need to select the opposite color from what you want to keep, and in order to narrow the kept color you need to widen the range of desaturated colors (and vice versa).

    Overall, this tool is simpler (and therefore less powerful) than Hue Saturation, and much simpler (and therefore much less powerful) than an HSV Mask applied to a Saturation tool. But for times when you don't need the power, why not keep things simple?

    By the way, I should mention yet one more -- even more complicated and even more powerful -- alternative that only applies when you want to fully desaturate some of the colors: an HSV Mask applied to a Filtered B&W tool. This is the most complicated combination for producing selective color photos, but I have to say that being able to adjust the B&W part of the image via the filtering is pretty darned nifty.

    A tip: the Chrominance Chart window (hotkey 5) can often help you nail the Color and Tolerance settings.

    Another tip: in the Color control, it doesn't much matter where the open circle (in the center area) is, as long as it isn't at one of the edges -- your main interest is the hue slider across the bottom.
    The CBF file is attached. The initial settings are from the Red Splash filter in CB 2.0. Here's what it contains.

    <filter version="4">
      <mod name="Selective Saturation" version="1" enabled="1">
        <var name="Color" type="color">171.000000 229.000000 223.000015 255.000000</var>
        <var name="Tolerance" type="float">80.191246</var>
        <var name="Saturation" type="float">0.000000</var>
      </mod>
    </filter>

    Adjustment Selective Sat.cbf

    • Like 1

  4. Just thinking aloud about the supplied presets...

    For the B&W presets, how about using a Filtered B&W with Amount=0 instead of Saturation? That would make it a tiny bit easier to add color filtration to those presets when desired.

    Is there a reason that some of the B&W presets do the curve first and then the saturation, while others do the saturation first?

    Have you considered including the 1-Hour Photo preset? Yeah, it's pretty close to a slightly-blurred version of the new B&W Films G 03, but G 03 is gentler on the bright highlights, which can reduce the impact of the result a bit.

    Speaking of B&W presets, what's the difference between B&W Essentials and the new B&W Films? I get that the film presets with "G" in the name add grain, but otherwise they seem to me to be just more variations. And sometimes the variations are unclear -- there's not a lot of difference between B&W Essentials 08 and B&W Films N 01, between B&W Essentials 04 and B&W Films N 04, and between B&W Essentials 09 and B&W Films N 05.

    Color Essentials 02 and 04 have separate Exposure, Contrast, and Saturation tools. Would they be simpler with a Multi-Tool? Or does the order somehow matter for those presets? Or maybe it'd be better to swap out the Contrast tool with Advanced Contrast using the default origin and method?


  5. When working with a hue curve, I sometimes find it impossible to grab the triangle to reposition the color range if there are curve control points at the "zero" level anywhere in the vicinity. I always seem to grab a curve control point instead of the triangle.

    As a workaround, I temporarily move the curve control points up a bit, off of zero, and put them back when I'm done tweaking the hue range.

    CameraBag Photo 3.0.1 on Windows 10.


  6. Kind of a nit-picky observation: the image used for this demo has what appears to be a broad halo above the heads of the two people. It looks rather like the halo effect from over-enthusiastic HDR, although I suspect it's probably just a bit of cloud that's in an unfortunate (in my mind, anyway) position.

    When cycling through the filtering controls, the halo (naturally) comes and goes. I think it gives the impression that the filtering is producing the halo effect, when in fact it's merely hiding or accentuating the existing halo.

    Anyway... for me, it's distracting.


  7. I'd suggest overviews of some of the adjustment options.

    #1 on my list would be the choices for many of the color tools:

    • Colorize
    • Tint
    • Color Filter
    • Dye
    • Color Balance
    • Screen
    • Multiply

    #2 would be the choices for Dynamics:

    • Overlay
    • Luminance

    #3 would be the choices for tone curve, advanced contrast, shadows/highlights:

    • RGB
    • Luminance
    • Value
    • Lightness

    #4 (last) would be the choices for blur and circular blur:

    • Gaussian
    • Box
    • Circle
    • Like 1

  8. Shift-arrow still works, but yeah, the left and right arrows alone don't do it any more.

    My guess is that was to prevent accidentally switching from one image to another while editing, but only the folks at NeverCenter know for sure.

    I'm retraining my fingers to hold the Shift key while scrolling among pictures, but sometimes they forget.

    • Like 1

  9. I'm not sure what it is that you're expecting when you read the phrase "custom filters." For CameraBag, it basically means you can make your own presets. A "filter" is the sequence of tiles across the bottom of the screen. Press the "+" key and you can save it into the My Presets part of the Presets tab.

    You can also save the filter into a file anywhere you want, with the File>Export Filter menu item (Ctrl-E).

    Edited to add: Oh, I see. You're asking about getting them into Fotograf. That I don't know about. Sorry.

    • Like 1

  10. It occurs to me that I should have mentioned that for simple tasks, the Exposure tool is pretty powerful. It's only got one adjustment, not five like Levels does, but a lot of times you only need one -- make the image brighter or darker.

    Exposure control is also available as part of the Multi Tool, if you're also looking to make contrast and/or saturation adjustments.


  11. For tweaking, I suspect the Shadows/Highlights tool will probably be a better choice.

    If the photo needs some serious correcting, go to the Tone Curve tool. Use the bottom left point for the left side of the Levels tool (black level), and the top right point for the right side (white level). You can grab a spot in the middle of the curve to adjust the overall brightness curve, or, if you're a purist, add an Exposure tool and use that instead.

    For photos in between those two extremes, you might find the Gamma Curve tool to be useful.

    In any event, you'll probably want to have the histogram ('1' key for brightness histogram, '2' key for RGB histogram) up so you can see when your adjustments are reaching the limits.


  12. CB Photo 3.0 on Windows 10.

    Opening multiple images and zooming into them often causes CB Photo to crash. It's a bit variable, but I haven't yet succeeded in opening an image in three different tabs and zooming into all three, without CB Photo crashing out. Two tabs oftentimes works, but three always crashes. The problem is noticed both with JPEGs and RAF Raw files (16 megapixel).

    To reproduce:

    1. Start CameraBag Photo on Windows.
    2. Open an image file. I've attached one that fails for me.
    3. Press the 8 key to zoom to 100%.
    4. Open a new tab.
    5. Open the same image file.
    6. Press the 8 key to zoom to 100%.
    7. Open a new tab.
    8. Open the same image file.
    9. Press the 8 key to zoom to 100%.
    10. If you got this far without crashing out, you can try a few more tabs, but I never got this far.

    The zoom seems to be critical to triggering the failure. The only time the crash occurs during the open operation is when another tab is left zoomed, otherwise the crash always occurs during the zoom operation.

    DPardee_161025_XT10_3602.JPG


  13. If I correctly understand what you're asking, here's a work-around:

    Stick a Coloring tile right after the mask and set the coloring parameters however you want (I suggest color method=Tint and amount=1.00). Adjust the mask as needed, then remove the Coloring tile.

    Don't just turn the Coloring tile off, because the mask applies to the tile (or nest) immediately to its right. If that tile or nest is turned off, the mask doesn't do anything.


  14. I suspect most people are accustomed to being able to use an eyedropper tool on a neutral part of their picture to set white balance. CameraBag doesn't offer that, but with the new Pixel Inspector window of CameraBag Photo, you can get the same general result with a bit of work.

    1. Open the Pixel Inspector window ('I' key).
    2. Click on the neutral spot that you'd normally eyedropper. Zooming in might help you pick the pixel you want.
    3. Be sure that the pixel for that neutral spot has been added to the Recent Pixels list in the Pixel Inspector window.

    Now you'll need to choose which adjustment tool you want to use.

    If green/magenta tint isn't a problem:

    1. Add a Temperature tool.
    2. Watch the values of the selected neutral pixel in the Recent Pixels list as you adjust the slider on the Temperature tool.
    3. Try to get the first (red) and last (blue) values for that neutral pixel to match. The middle (green) value should be similar to the other two.

    Or, if green/magenta tint is a problem (steps 1-3 below are optional):

    1. Add a Saturation tool and set it to zero saturation.
    2. Remember what the pixel values are for the selected neutral pixel in the Recent Pixels list -- this will be your target value in step 6.
    3. Remove (or disable) the Saturation tool.
    4. Add a Color Balance tool.
    5. Watch the values of the selected neutral pixel in the Recent Pixels list as you adjust the sliders on the Color Balance tool.
    6. Adjust the sliders so that all three values (red, green, blue) for that neutral pixel match the target value, or each other if you skipped steps 1-3. In my (limited) experience, you may need to resort to entering numerical values for the slider settings in order to achieve sufficient precision.

    You could use other color adjustment tools like Color Wheels or Coloring, but Temperature and Color Balance probably cover most of the usual cases with the least complication.

    You might find that you need to be a bit pickier about which pixel you select than if you were using an eyedropper tool in another program, because this looks at only one pixel while eyedroppers often look at the average of a number of pixels in the area.

    You can select up to three separate pixels to watch at the same time, which might be useful under some circumstances. For example, maybe part of the image is in shade and part in sunlight, and you want to split the difference in the white balance.

    • Like 1

  15. As far as I can tell from a sloppy search, Sony is the only camera manufacturer currently providing a Raw codec for Windows (https://esupport.sony.com/swu/4022/US/)

    Canon and Olympus used to provide Raw codecs, many years ago -- I have Canon's Windows XP codec for my 11-year-old Rebel XT. But as far as I can tell, there have been no Canon or Olympus codecs for modern cameras or modern versions of Windows.

    Fujifilm, Panasonic, and Pentax don't seem to have ever provided a Raw codec for Windows.

    I suspect that a Pentax set to produce DNG files can use Adobe's DNG codec (https://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=5495). Similarly, Leica should be able to use the DNG codec. I'd also expect that DNG files created by the Adobe DNG converter could be handled by Adobe's DNG codec. A potential kink is a mismatch in DNG version on this ancient software. The DNG codec is old, released back in 2012 for use on Windows 7. Reports are that it works fine on Windows 8 and Windows 10. I don't use DNG myself, so I can't attest to any of this personally.


  16. I use auto-DR on my Fujifilm X-T10, so that when it finds a lot of highlights being blown out in a picture I'm about to take, it switches to DR200 mode. In DR200 mode, the camera underexposes by one stop to protect some of the highlights, then compensates for that during JPEG processing.

    When working from a RAF (Fuji Raw) file, the compensation needs to be applied by the Raw converter. The Fast Picture Viewer codec for RAF doesn't apply that compensation, with the result that the image is dark by one stop.

    Using the JPEG file -- created at the same time as the Raw file -- as a reference, I created the following filter which fairly closely (but obviously not exactly) reproduces the adjustment made by Fuji's JPEG processing.

    Note that choice of film simulation will affect this a bit, since the FPV codec's Raw conversion doesn't do film simulations. If accuracy is important, separate filters would be needed for each film sim.

    Here's what's in the attached DR200.CBF file:

    <filter version="3">
      <mod name="Exposure" version="1" enabled="1">
        <var name="Amount" type="float">1.500000</var>
      </mod>
      <mod name="Tone Curve" version="1" enabled="1">
        <var name="Amount" type="float">1.000000</var>
        <var name="Curve" type="curve">0.000000 0.000000 0.123913 0.273913 0.425000 0.582609 0.665217 0.900000 1.000000 1.000000 </var>
        <var name="Method" type="choice">RGB</var>
      </mod>
    </filter>

    DR200.cbf

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